Estimated reading time: 8 minutes
Table of contents
Here is part 2 of how I made a barn door for less than $200.
Before Installing the Barn Door, I Threw some New Paint on the Wall
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Before I could hang the barn door, I decided to paint the wall. We were going to paint our bedroom anyway and it would be a lot easier to paint the wall before the barn door is hung on it. Following the tips from BradthePainter.com, I painted the trim first and then put 2 coats of paint on the wall. Finally, I cut into where the wall meets the trim and ceiling using a Purdy Nylox brush. Brad was right, you can’t beat it. I didn’t even use blue tape. The color is Palladium Blue from Benjamin Moore. The Trim is Benjamin Moore mixed to Sherwin Williams Pure White.
Install the Header Board to Support the Barn Door
As I mentioned in the last post, a header board is usually needed to attach the door to the wall. In fact, the instructions I have for the barn door hardware. recommends a header board be used in all situations. I chose a 1 x 6 board that I cut to my desired length. Just make sure the header board is longer than the railing you are using. Before installing, I gave it 2 coats of paint to match the wall. Some folks decide to paint/stain the board the same color as the barn door. Either works – it depends on your preference. I found the studs using a stud finder. TIP: Use a good one. At first, I grabbed my old one and that thing seems to find everything but studs 🤬. So I found my new one and it was no problem. To attach the board I used 2 1/2 self-tapping deck screws (no pre-drilling). I put 2 in each stud for a total of 10. I then went back and filled in the holes with wood filler and added another coat of paint to hide the screw holes.
Next Install the Barn Door Railing
The quality of the barn door hardware I used was great. I must say the instructions were written in an extremely small font and a little hard to follow but if you read them over a couple of times you can figure it out. Tip: determine where you will place the rubber stoppers (outside or inside the outer bolt on the left and right) before you install the railing because the bolts get in the way if you have to adjust it. Otherwise you will have to take the railing a apart, which is what I had to do 🤬.
Hanging the Barn Door and Keeping it From Swinging
Install the wheels to the door. This is what will roll along the railing so the door can slide. It’ll take a bit of playing around but I found it was best to stand the door up to get the measurements of where to drill the holes. I used a Winbag to slide under the door and pump it up to the height it would be. You need a guide to keep the door from swinging when you open and close it. The hardware came with a T-shaped plastic guide that you could install into the floor but would require a groove to be cut in the bottom of the door. In other words, it’s the perfect opportunity for me to screw this entire project up. Forget that. Instead, I used this glide roller. It was made by the same company that made the door hardware and screws into the wall or trim. Easy – no cutting a groove in the bottom of the door 😃.
Finally add a Nice Solid Handle.
I love this one I found on Amazon. It has a nice texture and feels substantial and it matches the barn door hardware. Super easy to install.
I removed the existing standard door, and I plan to use wood filler and fill in where the hinges were on the trim and the strike plate hole and repaint. Lastly, I added a nice sturdy lock for privacy; it is a barn door for a bathroom, after all. The reason I installed the hook on the trim instead of the door was so it wouldn’t rattle around when the door is opened.
That’s it the project is complete. This entire barn door project cost less than $200.
Somebody get me a beer!